As demand for the greatest Côtes des Blancs grand crus continues to spiral, the privilege of substantial, well-placed holdings cannot be overstated. Gilles and Ingrid Bonville and their son Olivier are in command of 20 glorious hectares of prime grand cru turf, largely in Avize, with old vines on the slope of Oger and a little in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant. Tended and vinified with precision, their polished blanc de blancs contrast the tension and brilliance of Avize with the generosity and exoticism of Oger. Olivier Bonville is the Fourth generation of vine-growers. Tyson Stelzer.
