"This is indeed rare, the eighth vintage since 1976, and it keeps on coming, still current in the market six years after release. And, my goodness, it continues to radiate more than its quota of sheer joy! It still glows in elegantly medium-straw hues, impressively bright for 15 years of age. Its enticing gunflint reduction notes still lead out, carrying with them a wonderfully complex yet compact and elegant array of succulent yellow stone fruits, now beginning to show the complexity of glacé pear, with rising notes of wood smoke and buttered toast. Bottles opened in Champagne still uphold primary citrus vitality.
Lees age has built seamless, creamy, silky integration, having finally attained its lofty pinnacle, which it will hold for some years yet. Its chalk minerality is fine, salty and pronounced, uniting the finesse of the Côte des Blancs with the firmer definition of the Montagne. It epitomises the gentle, textural minerality, the buttery allure of long age, and the harmonious personality and magnificent persistence of chardonnay in this epic vintage. The place of calm satisfaction to which it has evolved is all-encompassing.
There is harmony here, and peace, like the gentle misty haze before dawn. A place that makes you slow down, and begs you to stay.
Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide 2018-2019
70% chardonnay from Avize, Vertus, Verzy and Villers-Marmery; 30% pinot noir from Aÿ; 11g/L dosage