"In philosophy and pedigree, de Cramant is an altogether different tier in the world of Mumm, and it’s their only cuvée that I buy. A rather young release, it’s bottled at 4.5 atmospheres of pressure rather than the usual 6, to soften the impression of acidity. It’s always been one variety (chardonnay), one village (Cramant) and one vintage, though never labelled as a vintage as it’s sometimes released too young.
De Cramant has now been replaced by RSRV Cuvée Resérvée Blanc de Blancs, which refreshingly declares both village and vintage on the front label. To maintain consistency, Mumm plays with selection of plots, fermentation temperature, addition of lees, blocking of malolactic fermentation and, unique in Champagne, even micro-oxygenation on some tanks.
The 2010 is an excellent release for de Cramant, with a tight backbone of lemon citrus fruit, overlaid with the complexity of lees age in almond meal and brioche notes, even a touch of toasted coconut. It finishes long and tense with very fine dry extract providing structure and dimension, offering a compelling contrast to its acid structure.
Its phenolic grip and earthy dryness reflect the season, yet it nonetheless upholds the lemon purity, persistence and acid line of Cramant. An energetic and age-worthy wine, and a good result for the 2010 season."
Tyson Stelzer - The Champagne Guide 2018-2019